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Do you know the value of your sports card collection? How confident are you in the number you came up with? Knowing what your collection is worth is a superpower both new and seasoned collectors deserve. This guide will give you the knowledge to value your cards and unlock that superpower for your collection.
Inventory your Collection
If you want to set up a repeatable process for valuing your cards, there are two inventory options: build a spreadsheet or use a collection management software like Card Ladder. If you would like more info on the pros and cons of each option, check out our "Where to Track Your Sports Card Collection" guide. Whichever option you choose, make sure to document the following details:
Year
Manufacturer and Brand
Player Name
Condition (See step 2)
Card Number (Optional)
Parallel (If applicable)
Purchase Price (Highly suggested, but optional)
Purchase Date (Highly suggested, but optional)
The level of detail you track depends on how much effort you want to put in. It’s much easier for a new collector to track everything when starting a collection than for someone who just inherited a 100,000-card collection. Identify the cards that are worth your time to value and include those in your inventory.
Tip for collectors with large collections: Star by focusing on the most valuable parts of your collection. Look for rookie cards, parallels, serial-numbered cards, well-known sets, and star players. For a large number of common or base cards, consider using sampling to estimate their average value, which we'll discuss in step 3.
Assess the Condition
The condition of a card significantly affects its value—cards in better condition are worth more. Understanding whether a card is in very good, excellent, or gem mint condition is crucial for accurate valuation.
Graded Cards: Determining the condition of a graded card is straightforward. Professional grading companies evaluate the card, assign it a numerical grade, and encase it in a protective slab. Note which company graded the card and the grade it received, then add this information to your inventory tracker. With this, you've completed step two.
Raw Cards (Ungraded Cards): Major grading companies have slightly different standards for assessing a card's condition, but they all evaluate four key attributes: centering, corners, edges, and surface.
Centering: This measures how well the image is centered on the card.
What to look for: Compare the four borders around the card. Are they similar in width? Does the image appear to be leaning toward the top, bottom, left, or right?
Corners: Sharp corners are preferable, while rounded corners or those with paper loss decrease the value.
What to look for: Inspect the corners for any bends, rounding, or paper loss, both on the front and back.
Edges: Clean edges without any chipping or dents are ideal.
What to look for: Check for small bends, dents, or any chipping along the edges.
Surface: A card's surface should be free of scratches, scuffs, and printing defects.
What to look for: Hold the card at different angles under various types of light to spot any scratches, print lines, or other imperfections that might not be easily noticeable.
After reviewing each card, try assigning it your own grade. Referencing PSA’s Grading Standards can be helpful, as they provide clear criteria for each numerical grade. For instance, a PSA Gem-Mint 10 is described as:
A PSA 10 card is a virtually perfect card. Attributes include four perfectly sharp corners, sharp focus, and full original gloss. A PSA 10 card must be free of any staining, though a slight printing imperfection is allowed if it doesn’t affect the card's overall appeal. The image must be centered within approximately 55/45 to 60/40 percent on the front, and 75/25 percent on the back.
Assign your own grade to the card and make a note of it in your inventory tracker.
Best Practice Tips: Compare your card with images of professionally graded cards to see if your assessment aligns. When in doubt, it's best to be conservative and grade the card a point or two lower than your initial assessment.
Review Comparable Sales
With your cards inventoried and their condition assessed, it's time to assign each a dollar value. The most reliable way to do this is by reviewing recent sales of comparable cards.
Look for sales of comparable cards within the past three months. This gives you an idea of what a buyer might be willing to pay for a similar card today.
While eBay's completed sales data is accessible, I do not recommend using it for two key reasons:
Lack of transparency in best offer prices: eBay does not display the actual price accepted for best offers on fixed-price listings.
Limited to eBay sales: eBay’s completed sales data only includes transactions that took place on their platform.
In today's hobby landscape, with countless cards being sold across various marketplaces, you need a card sales tool that goes beyond just eBay. 130 Point is a free solution that addresses both of these issues while Card Ladder is my choice for a premium option.
130 Point
Visit 130pt.com/cards/.
Select "All Marketplaces": This will provide price data for sales on eBay, Fanatics Collect, Goldin, MySlabs, Pristine Auctions, and Heritage Auctions.
Enter the card name and press "Submit". It may take a few seconds for 130 Point to compile your results.
Using Boolean Search to Refine Your Results: It's important to note that your search might return unintended results. You can use Boolean search symbols to narrow down or exclude unwanted listings. For example, if you are searching for the 2012 Prizm Tom Brady PSA 10 base card, but also see results for his "Brilliance" insert, simply add "-brilliance" to your search to exclude that card.
Reviewing Sales Prices: Once you’re satisfied with your search results, review the sales prices. I suggest calculating the average of the last few sales while omitting any significant outliers to get a more accurate valuation.
Note: 130 Point does have some limitations:
Limited eBay history: It only provides completed eBay sales data from the last 90 days. This makes it challenging to research cards that are sold infrequently.
Limited auction house coverage: 130 Point tracks fewer auction houses compared to some paid options. Notable omissions include Alt, REA, Memory Lane, SCP, Mile High, Love of the Game, and 90’s Auctions.
Both limitations can be addressed by using a premium tool. My tool of choice is Card Ladder.
Card Ladder Sales History
Card Ladder fills the gaps that 130 Point cannot cover. The platform provides access to eBay’s complete sales history, dating all the way back to 2004. They also continuously onboard new auction houses, offering users the most comprehensive aggregated sales record available.
Note: Sales History is only available to Pro members. At the time of publishing, a Pro membership costs $15 per month.Using Card Ladder's Sales History Feature
Searching "Sales History" on Card Ladder is both powerful and simple:
Visit app.cardladder.com or download the mobile app.
Select "Sales History": By default, the search will return sales from all platforms that Card Ladder receives data from.
Enter the card name: After typing in your search query, results will automatically populate, which is a small but significant improvement in user experience.
You can sort results by "Date Sold" or "Price" depending on your needs. Pro users also have the option to save frequent searches for future use.
Certain cards are actively tracked by the Card Ladder team, indicated by a green badge with a checkmark. Clicking on a sale for these cards will reveal additional information to help you value the card, including the "CL Value." The CL Value uses the latest sale of a card to extrapolate its current value based on the price trends of similar cards by the same player. This is a useful method to estimate where a card might sell today, even in the absence of very recent sales.
Card Ladder has also created a very useful guide called "How to Search Sales History," which I highly recommend checking out for more detailed instructions.
A Word of Caution: Comparable sales are just one factor to consider when valuing your cards, as each sale is unique. Auction results can vary greatly depending on timing—an auction might have performed very differently if held at another time. For example, two motivated collectors could significantly drive up the price of a rare card that hasn’t appeared for years, while a third bidder might have only been willing to pay a fraction of that amount. Similarly, a "Buy It Now" listing may be underpriced compared to what two bidders might be willing to pay for the same card at auction. There are many variables to keep in mind when evaluating sales data, including timing, market conditions, and collector behavior.
3a. Sampling for Common Cards
When dealing with a collection that contains tens of thousands of cards, valuing each card individually becomes impractical, especially when the majority of the collection consists of common cards. To establish an approximate value, it’s helpful to work with a representative sample.
Select a Sample Size: Choose a manageable sample size from your collection, such as 500 to 1,000 cards. This sample should be randomly selected to provide a balanced representation of the entire collection. Ensure that you include cards from different years, sets, and conditions to reflect the overall diversity.
Sort by Condition and Era: Begin by sorting your sample by the card’s condition (e.g., mint, near mint, good, fair) and era (vintage vs. modern). Condition and era significantly affect value, with older cards and those in better condition typically holding higher worth.
Research Average Value: Look up the current market value for similar cards from your sample using resources like 130 Point or Card Ladder. Calculate the average price based on several recent sales, excluding any unusually high or low outliers.
Calculate the Average Value Per Card: Once you have the average value for each condition and era category, multiply these averages by the total number of cards in the collection that match each category.
For example, if you find that cards from the 1990s in good condition are typically worth $0.10 each and you have 5,000 cards that fit this description, then the total value for that portion of the collection would be $500.
Consider Bulk Pricing: Remember that commons, especially from overproduced eras, are often sold in bulk. If you’re trying to assess a value for resale, the price per card may be lower. Many bulk buyers are looking for discounts, so adjust the estimated value based on current bulk market trends.
For instance, a box of 1,000 common cards from the "junk wax era" (late 1980s to early 1990s) might only sell for $10-$20. A few examples of bulk lots that have recently sold are below.
Note on Condition: The condition of common cards is crucial. Cards in poor condition often hold no value, even in bulk.
Totaling Up Your Collection & Adjusting for Realistic Values
Once you've valued individual cards or categories within your collection, it's time to add everything up and get a sense of the overall worth. However, before you finalize this valuation, there are a few important factors to consider to ensure you have a realistic estimate.
Account for Selling Fees
When calculating the total value of your collection, remember that what you see isn’t necessarily what you get when you sell. Sports card transaction fees can be quite high compared to other investments, and these fees will significantly impact your net proceeds. Common fees include:
eBay Fees: eBay takes approximately 10-13% of the final sale value, depending on the category and any promotions.
Payment Processing Fees: Platforms like PayPal or credit card processors typically take an additional 2.9% + $0.30 per transaction.
Auction House Commissions: Auction houses like Goldin or Heritage often charge around 20% buyer’s premium, which can affect both the realized sale price and the value you ultimately receive.
Consider estimating an average of 15-20% in fees for online and auction transactions, and adjust your collection’s total value accordingly. For instance, if you estimate your collection's total value at $10,000, subtracting 20% in fees gives you a more realistic expectation of $8,000.
Bulk Discounts for Commons
If you are considering selling large quantities of common cards, bulk pricing will likely apply. As discussed earlier, commons typically sell for far less than their individual “book value” when sold in bulk. Adjust the value of these cards down to reflect what you could reasonably expect if you needed to move them quickly.
Market Timing and Liquidity
Sports card values are highly dependent on player performance, trends, and overall market conditions. The total value of your collection today may change significantly over the next few months or years. If you plan to sell, think about the timing and the liquidity of your cards. High-value cards may take longer to sell, especially if you are holding out for a higher price.
Emotional Value vs. Monetary Value
It’s important to distinguish between sentimental value and actual market value. Cards that have strong emotional significance might be worth more to you personally than their market value indicates. Be honest with yourself about which cards you’d be willing to part with and which you may want to keep, regardless of their monetary worth.
Total and Adjust
After accounting for fees, bulk discounts, market conditions, and emotional value, adjust the total value of your collection accordingly. This adjusted value will give you a realistic picture of what your collection is worth if you choose to sell today.
Summary: Understanding the True Value of Your Sports Card Collection
Valuing your sports card collection is not only about knowing what each card is worth but also about understanding the broader factors that impact that value. From inventorying your collection and assessing card condition to reviewing recent sales and accounting for the real costs of selling, each step gives you a clearer picture of the collection’s true worth. Remember to account for fees, consider bulk discounts for common cards, and be realistic about the impact of market conditions and liquidity.
Whether you're a seasoned collector or just starting, having a solid understanding of your collection's value empowers you to make informed decisions—whether you're looking to sell, hold, or continue expanding your collection. Take the time to complete these steps, make any necessary adjustments, and understand the true value of what you own. This knowledge will help you enjoy the hobby while also making smart financial choices.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. How often should I update my collection’s value? It’s a good practice to review and update the value of your collection every 3-6 months, depending on market activity. High-value cards or cards from players with fluctuating performances should be monitored more frequently.
2. Are there any tools to help automate tracking and valuing my collection?Yes, tools like Card Ladder can be used to automate tracking and get real-time valuation updates for your collection. Using a digital solution is particularly useful if you have a large or actively changing collection.
3. How do I decide which cards are worth getting graded? Focus on cards that are in excellent condition, are rare, or have significant value in the market. Grading fees can add up, so it’s best to grade cards that will see a considerable value increase once graded. Popular rookies, low-population cards, or those in pristine condition are usually good candidates.
4. Why do I need to consider selling fees when valuing my collection? Selling fees can significantly impact your net proceeds. Between eBay, payment processing, and auction house commissions, fees can take up to 20% or more of the sale price. Factoring in these fees ensures you have a more realistic understanding of what you will ultimately receive if you decide to sell.
5. Is it better to sell my collection all at once or individually? It depends on your goals. Selling individually often yields a higher total return, especially for high-value cards, but it can be time-consuming. Selling in bulk is quicker and easier but may require accepting lower prices, especially for common cards. A mixed approach can also work—selling valuable cards individually and lower-value cards in bulk.
6. How should I value my collection if most of my cards are common or from the junk wax era? For large numbers of common cards, consider using a sample to estimate an average value. Bulk pricing is usually the best way to evaluate commons, especially if they come from an overproduced era. Remember that cards in poor condition may hold little to no value.